Our tip: Changing the filter means changing the seals

So it’s time to change the oil filter. Nothing to it, right? As easy as it may seem, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. Follow our two tips below and you’ll be sure to avoid any post-oil change whinging.

Mind the black

In the flow: Our spin-on oil filters OC 593/3 and OC 593/4 for VW 1.2 and 1.4 TSI engines have a seal on the filter that fully closes off the antidrain back plate when screwed into position.

  • Figure 1: View of the flange on the engine side with the anti-drain back plate
  • Figure 2: The upper gasket (raised for the sake of clarity) seals the drainage mechanism in the flange.
  • Figure 3: When loosening the old filter, make sure that no engine oil gets onto the belt drive or into the alternator.

The drain only opens when the filter is loosened during an oil change: the remaining engine oil then flows into the oil pan and can be disposed of. But keep your eyes peeled: the old sealing ring can stick to the flange, and because the used oil is black, the ring can be hard to see. As a result, leaks can occur and the oil pressure indicator can light up when the engine is running, even though the new filter is properly screwed on.

Our tip no. 1: Always remove the old ring from the flange. And don’t forget to coat the new sealing rings with clean motor oil every time before fitting them.

Down to the last residue

Figure 4: The old gasket can remain stuck in the flange and must always be removed.
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Take it slow: When you remove the used filter, the remaining oil in the filter and flange flows back into the oil pan through the antidrain back plate. This takes time. If you rush this step in the process, you’ll get ahead of the residual oil, so to speak. This can cause used oil to spill over the flange, resulting in contamination.

Our tip no. 2: Never use a removal tool to tighten the filter. As the name says, this tool should only be used to remove the filter. Overtightening can damage the surface and cause the filter to leak.

 

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